Twenty years ago a once-flogged out 138 hectare mixed-farming property was deemed ideal for a new lease of life; this time growing grapes, figs and olives, organically.
Situated on the Belubula River, just south of Canowindra in the Central West of NSW, the Statham family moved from their sheep property at Barraba and commenced the transformation.
Richard, Florence and sons Sam, Nick and Oli and Florence’s mother, Dolly, are a diverse and talented group bringing creative skills which result in Rosnay being a very unique property for many reasons.
Sadly, Dolly has since died however her legacy of humour, wisdom and French cuisine proudly live on.
However, the starting point of 0.25 per cent organic matter and a pH of 4.5 was the legacy of years of high chemical input farming and overgrazing by sheep.
“When we first arrived we threw whatever we could at the soil to increase its life and fertility before we started planting anything” Sam Statham explained.
“We have used a variety of products and systems to reach the point where, now, we have incredible resilience in the entire system which is really tested during dry periods and, when there is rain combined with prolonged humidity causing perfect conditions for mildews and moulds on the summer crops.
“The stability of the perennial vineyard and orchards provide multiple income streams throughout the year, although we have a very busy time from now (February) harvesting and processing very perishable figs, through until May when the last of the olives are harvested for pressing and pickling.
“In between these two highlights is vintage for the grapes and often, that is a 24-hour marathon.”
The Stathams’ have 20ha of grapes, 10ha of olives and 0.5ha of figs which they process and sell under their own brand, Rosnay Organics. The hand-crafting is taken to the level of all products bearing exquisite hand-painted labels created by Florence, a well-known artist in her own right.
The entire property is under a community title, meaning there are seven parcels of land within the whole, individually owned and operating under the organic covenant. This covenant underpins the entire community’s raison d’etre to grow nourishing foods using organic and biological practices - always.
Florence’s French heritage is recognisable in the flavours of the various fig products, once produced in her kitchen but now carefully prepared in the farm’s own commercial kitchen.
“This year’s fig harvest of 12 varieties has gone pretty well to plan as the weather has been favourable and the birds, usually a huge nuisance, must have had other things to feast on”.
“We make Figs in Syrup, Fig Syrup, dried figs and Fig Preserve. All ingredients we include are certified organic and, for the Figs in Syrup and Preserve, we make our own port as a vital ingredient. This means we have almost total control over production”.
“From what began as a few jars of Figs in Syrup and Preserve to use the bird damaged fruit, we now order pallets of jars and our customers are in specialist food stores, by mail and at our cellar door”.
The olives and majority of the grapes are processed off-farm.
The machine and hand-picked olives olives are taken to Billimari Olive Processing only 12 kms from Rosnay. Established by Charlie de Nanteuil in 2005, this important infrastructure has enabled the establishment of many olive groves within a 250km radius.
Without processing facilities relatively close-by, fruit loses its freshness and, by default, the quality is reduced. The Rosnay pickled olives are done on-farm.
The original Semillon, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines have had Vermintino, Granache and Mourvedra vines added in the past few years. The grapes from Rosnay have no further than 40kms to travel, to wine-maker Chris Derrez at Mt Canobolas winery. Mr Derrez makes all the organic wines plus the Freedom range of sulphur-free wines.
“Even organic wines affect some people who are sensitive to preservatives and, although sulphur is allowable, it has been a challenge to find wines without it. That’s why we produce Freedom White and Freedom Red wines and these are so popular we now dedicate a large proportion of the vintage to making these wines”, Mr Statham said.
The Rosnay sparkling wines are made by Antonio D’Onise at the Windowrie winery, only 10kms from Rosnay. “The popularity of the Sparkling Rose and Sparkling Chardonnay keeps growing; these aren’t just fizzy bubbles, they are serious wines for celebrating”.
Newcastle based wine writer, Daniel Honan, selected the 2009 Rosnay Shiraz in the Selector Magazine’s Best 20 Organic Wines’ describing it “Youthful medium ruby red in colour, this organic Shiraz offers aromas of ripe black fruits with fresh red cherry lift and prune-like depth. The ripe and soft palate features juicy red fruits in a supple, savoury style, with good juicy appeal and a hint of black pepper to finish”.
The annual Cowra Wine Show is regarded as one of the most prestigious in Australia receiving thousands of entries every year. The most contested awards among the many wineries within the Cowra wine area is the Greg Johnson award for the Best Local Red Wine of the Show. In 2012 this was awarded to the Rosnay 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, demonstrating these organic wines are among the best in open company.
Rosnay, in partnership with the other farms making up Rivers Road Organic Farms, is an inspiring example of vision, quality, collaboration and planning for the future.
“Living here with other families has created a beautiful community where all the children are close to growing food, learning about enterprise, sharing celebrations and having the freedom to move between each other’s houses in total safety”, Mr Statham concluded.