November is a good time for gardeners to start propagating. You can’t manage a big garden without producing your own plants and it’s far more fun planning changes and new initiatives when you’re not constantly worrying about the cost.
There are several types of layering but the easiest one for our purposes is known technically as simple layering, where all you do is peg a branch down into the soil.
Shrubs are the country gardener’s standby, especially in a dry climate, and one excellent way of reproducing them is by layering.
I should say right from the jump that this week’s column is not for blokes.
I have yet to meet the male gardener who didn’t want everything yesterday and preferably last week, and the single drawback of layering is that it’s slow.
Mind you once you’re up and running there’s nothing like it, as provided you do it regularly you’ll always have something ready to go.
But it can take a couple of years to get there, though most plants are quicker than that.
There are several types of layering but the easiest one for our purposes is known technically as simple layering, where all you do is peg a branch down into the soil.
Sooner or later, usually later, roots will form, allowing you to remove the rooted portion and plant it elsewhere.
Equipment required, apart from patience, consists of large pegs for pinning down the layers (make from a wire coat hanger), a sharp knife, a few short canes and some thick, soft twine or old tights.
Substitute a stone for the peg if you see a potential layer when you’re weeding and worry you might forget it.
Theoretically you can peg layers at any time of year but early summer is good, as plants in active growth are more likely to putt out new roots than when they’re dormant.
When choosing a stem to layer, flexibility is the key as it needs to bend easily.
Young, woody shoots are ideal - sappy ones are no use.
You can layer shrubs at any age and layering is a great way of ensuring an ancient treasure isn’t lost.
Having selected your stem, make a 5cm long cut in it, at a spot where it can reach the ground easily, to form a sort of ‘tongue’ in the stem.
Push a little stone in to keep it open.
Roots from more quickly from the callus formed over a wounded surface, the bigger the better.
Bury the wounded stem at about 10-15 centimetres, peg it down, then bend the end upright and tie to your bamboo stake.
Water well, spread a thick layer of mulch and keep damp, the propagator’s mantra.
When looking for something to layer, I go for plants that have failed as cuttings.
I’m currently trying the limey gold smokebush, Cotinus ‘Golden Spirit’ and a starry white, spring flowering Magnolia stellata.
A shrub layered now should (fingers tightly crossed) be ready to dig up in about 18 months’ time.
What’s on: Charles and Eva Curran’s garden Noojee Lea, Canowindra is open for Canowindra Garden Club on Saturday November 18, 2-5pm, $20pp or $30 per family includes Devonshire Tea, in support of Canowindra Hospital. Walled Garden, Courtyard designed by Paul Bangay; garden stalls from specialist Canowindra Nurseries. Details jenny.laing60@gmail.com/
